Rosslyn Chapel

Rosslyn Chapel, situated some six miles south of Edinburgh, has for more than five centuries stood as a monument to truth and a beacon to virtue, an imposing and lasting tribute to the spirit of the Knight Templars of old and the operative Craftmasons of Scotland. Whether or not it is, as some claim it, a “Bible in Stone,” it is unquestionably an edifice of mystic and historic worth, more particularly for those who are interested in the pre-speculative origins of Freemasonry.

It is not to the outside, however, but to the inside, that both the casual observer and the student of Masonry’s origins invariably turn their attention. Baignet and Leigh find the interior of the Chapel, to be “a fevered hallucination in stone, a riotous explosion of carved images and geometrical configuration piled on top of one another, flowing into one another, overlapping one another.” To Wallace-Murphy, in contrast, the interior is distinguished primarily by the “variety, candour and exuberance of its carvings,” some of which are “more like works of nature than of man.” The Chapel and its appointments, according to this source, are largely attributable to an inspired plan, a gifted man (St. Clair), and construction that proceeded at a pace that precluded “contamination of the original conception from outside influences.”

What is it about these carvings that have so captivated the interest of observers over the ages? Knight and Lomas believe it is because they speak symbolically about cultural and moral values whose origins are Egyptian, Celtic, Jewish, Templar and Masonic in origin. According to them the Chapel’s distinctly Christian imagery, the stained glass windows, a statue of Madonna and child, and the baptistery, was added centuries after the original work in the Chapel had been completed.

Foremost among the original carvings are three pillars that stand on a stage at the east end of the Chapel. These pillars have been designated the “Apprentice’s Pillar,” the “Journeyman’s Pillar,” and the “Master Mason’s Pillar”. The most impressive of the three is the Apprentice’s Pillar, to which is attached a legend that involves the murder of the Craftsman who is presumed to have created.

According to this legend a model of the pillar is supposed to have been sent from someplace in Europe to be used as a pattern in the cutting of the pillar in stone. The master on viewing the model concluded that he must see the original from which the model was made, before starting his work. While away on his inspection tour, an apprentice rose to the challenge and carved the pillar as it now stands.

The Rosslyn Chapel web site has a downloadable leaflet, things to do and directions.

Getting around Scotland

For the purposes of getting around Scotland, you can regard the country in three distinct parts. The first is the Central Lowlands, home to 70% of Scots despite occupying just 20% of the land area. This extends from Aberdeen in the north east, down past Dundee to Edinburgh, and then west across Scotland's central belt taking in Stirling en route to Glasgow and Clydeside, before finally heading south to take in Ayr. The second part is everywhere else in mainland Scotland. And the third comprises the inhabited islands.

Central Lowlands
Getting around the Central Lowlands is relatively straightforward. The distances involved are relatively short, the provision of transport infrastructure is fairly good, and the level of service available on public transport is quite good. Roads into or out of the main cities can become very congested, especially during the morning and evening peak periods, but whether you are travelling by car, bus, coach or train, you can usually count on getting to where you want to be fairly quickly and without the need for too much detailed planning.
Traveline Scotland has a journey planner for intra-city buses, coaches, trains and ferries.

Mainland Scotland, including Highlands
The rest of mainland Scotland includes the Highlands and Argyll, the Scottish Borders and Dumfries and Galloway. Here distances are longer, roads of more variable quality (but far less busy than in the Central Belt), and the provision and level of service on public transport more hit and miss. Rather more forethought and planning is often needed than for a trip within the Central Belt.

Gauging times and distances
As a really rough average, we'd suggest that you should allow at least an hour for every 50 miles if travelling on the A1 or M74 from England to Edinburgh or Glasgow, and at least an hour for every 40 miles of travelling in most of the rest of Scotland, and for every 20-30 miles of travelling on single track roads. And if your destination is time-critical, for example you need to catch a particular ferry, add in an extra hour to start with, and perhaps an extra hour for every couple of hundred miles you are travelling in total. Scotfax has a handy table that shows distances between cities in miles.

Single Track Roads
As you drive through the more remote areas, sooner or later you'll find yourself on a road too narrow to pass the vehicles coming the other way towards you. Welcome to Scotland's single track roads. There are far fewer of these than there used to be, but quite a few still remain. With common sense and a mix of assertiveness and consideration, driving these is not as big a problem as it might seem to first-time visitors, and you can find out all you need to know on the Scotfax Feature on the subject.

Animals in rural areas
Something else you need to watch out for on rural roads in Scotland are animals. Many roads in upland sheep-rearing areas are unfenced, and sheep have vanishingly little road sense: and even where there is a fence, sheep can still be on the road. The lambing season in Spring needs particular care. If you come across a sheep on one side of the road and a lamb on the other, you can guarantee that one will cross to join the other as you approach. But it's not just sheep: it's not uncommon to come across cattle or even goats on the road, and deer jumping out into the path of traffic from undergrowth or in woods cause many road accidents in Scotland.

Ferries
An aspect of driving in Scotland that adds greatly to the enjoyment of the experience is the need to use vehicle ferries to reach many of the inhabited islands: and in places to link together parts of the mainland widely separated by long sea-lochs. Just remember to take notice of, and obey, the instructions from the crew when loading and unloading. And above all else remember to apply your handbrake for the crossing and, if you have any doubts about it, put your vehicle in gear as well.

Petrol stations
Petrol stations are readily available across the whole of Scotland, and many, especially in the cities, are open 24/7. In more remote rural areas, petrol stations will still be there, but can be fewer and further between, fuel tends to be more expensive than in the cities, and they are more likely to closed at night and on Sundays. Despite this, with a bit of forethought, no-one should ever end up running out of fuel in Scotland. Virtually all petrol stations sell unleaded petrol and diesel, and most also sell lead replacement petrol. LPG is less widely available. Virtually all garages take credit cards, though if you you've just arrived somewhere really small and remote, without obvious credit card acceptance signs on view, it is useful to check before filling up.

Edinburgh underground: the South Bridge Vaults

The Edinburgh Vaults or South Bridge Vaults are a series of chambers formed in the nineteen arches of the South Bridge in Edinburgh, Scotland, which was completed in 1788. For around 30 years, the vaults were used to house taverns, cobblers and other tradesmen, and as storage space for illicit material, reportedly including the bodies of people killed by serial killers Burke and Hare for medical experiments.

As the conditions in the vaults deteriorated, mainly because of damp and poor air quality, the businesses left and the very poorest of Edinburgh's citizens moved in, though by around 1820, even they are believed to have left too. That people had lived there was only discovered in 1985 during an excavation, when middens were found containing toys, medicine bottles, plates, and other signs of human habitation.

Scotland's Malt Whisky Trail

Whisky distilleries were founded in an environment rich in the highest quality ingredients: pure, clear spring water and abundant supplies of fragrant golden barley. On the whisky trail of Speyside, you'll find more than half of Scotland's malt whisky distilleries, each with its own warm welcome and an invitation to see, smell, taste and absorb the magic of whisky.

Each whisky distillery on the distillery tour follows its own traditions, lore and recipes for everything from malting the barley to the height and size of its stills. The unique characteristics of each Speyside whisky distillery result in delightful, hand-crafted whisky from each one. All offer visitors a sample of the finished product and some include an informative nosing and tasting while others give an insight into the complex art of blending whisky and malt.

You can follow the world-famous Malt Whisky Trail through Speyside to seven working distilleries, including a fascinating cooperage and a historic distillery. From Benromach to Dallas Dhu, a perfect time capsule of whisky-making; from Glen Moray to Strathisla, home and heart of Chivas Regal; from the Glen Grant distillery to the Speyside Cooperage where real coopers work with incredible speed and skill; from Glenfiddich to The Glenlivet and the Cardhu distillery, Scotland's whisky trail signposts lead you through the picturesque lush countryside of Speyside, the world's favourite malt whisky region.


There are two great interactive maps:
The Official Malt Whiskey Trail site
The Malt Madness site lets you choose by distillery

Glasgow - A video postcard from Hostelworld.com

Scotland's Towns: Stirling

A 24-minute video featuring Stirling, gateway to the highlands (with an annoying 30-second pre-roll ad).

Scotland's Towns: St Andrews

A 24-minute video about the history of St. Andrews.
(Unfortunately, you have to endure the 30-second ad first.)

Edinburgh - 10 Things You Need To Know